Installing something outside the project directory from a cmake
invocation is overly intrusive; this changes tests/CMakeLists.txt to
just fail with an informative message instead, and changes the
travis-ci builds to install pytest via pip or apt-get.
Use simple asserts and pytest's powerful introspection to make testing
simpler. This merges the old .py/.ref file pairs into simple .py files
where the expected values are right next to the code being tested.
This commit does not touch the C++ part of the code and replicates the
Python tests exactly like the old .ref-file-based approach.
